Europe has some superb winter resorts. Most individuals routinely head to the Alps, however it’s completely value holding an open thoughts for different mountain ranges, particularly in case you like issues a bit extra relaxed and genuine.
Enter the Pyrenees.
The Pyrenees supply a extra rugged, wild-feeling different to the Alps, with smaller villages, friendlier value tags, and correct mountain character. You’ll be able to experience powder within the morning and finish the day soaking in thermal swimming pools or lingering over a hearty dinner in a stone-built village.
Final summer time I used to be already within the space and people rock formations actually shocked me – under no circumstances what I anticipated. So I used to be severely wanting ahead to coming again in winter, trying out the pistes and circumstances with a snowboard underneath my toes.
Right here is an summary:
Why go? Genuine appeal, usually decrease costs than many big-name Alpine resorts, and the prospect to expertise totally different valleys and vibes in a single journey.
Should do: Spend a day snowboarding or snowboarding the Pic du Midi space or Saint-Lary-Soulan, then unwind in one of many thermal baths that the area is legendary for.
Professional tip: Renting a automobile makes it a lot simpler to hop between valleys, ski areas and villages, however in winter you’ll need winter tyres or snow chains – mountain passes right here can get correctly snowy.
On this journey I rode the areas round Pic du Midi (Grand Tourmalet), plus Vallée du Louron, Saint-Lary-Soulan and Piau Engaly / Peyragudes.
If you wish to plan your personal route by means of the French Pyrenees, the official vacation spot website pyrenees-holiday.com is a extremely helpful hub for concepts, maps and present information.
Arrival within the French Pyrenees
Normally I pack my automobile and drive 8–9 hours into the Alps, with the entire automobile swallowed by snowboard gear. From my hometown to the Pyrenees, although, it could be nearer to a 15-hour drive, so this time I went for the flight choice. I flew into Toulouse, which is then roughly a 2-hour drive to plenty of the principle ski valleys… rather more practical for an extended weekend.
Subsequent time, if I keep longer, I’d in all probability drive once more, only for the pliability.
It’s additionally value checking if you will get a flight to Tarbes–Lourdes–Pyrénées Airport, which is nearer to resorts like Grand Tourmalet and Saint-Lary than Toulouse. There’s additionally Altiport Peyresourde–Balestas (close to Peyragudes), which is used for small plane and generally winter operations, however schedules are restricted and really seasonal. All the time double-check routes and availability to your dates.
And sure, there’s that one “shitty airline” flying into a few of these smaller airports – many individuals use it fairly fortunately. I nonetheless keep away from for good causes. 😏
Picture by CallumJelley, INTERSPORT.
Rental Gear
As a substitute of paying a heavy baggage charge to carry my very own snowboard, I rented my complete setup at an Intersport store within the resort – together with boots. That meant I might journey with hand baggage solely and nonetheless have all the things I wanted for a correct snowboard journey. I simply clipped my helmet onto the surface of my small backpack and no person minded. If they’d, it could have turn into my “flight-security-helmet”. 😉
On my subsequent journey I’ll carry my very own boots. Rental boots have been OKish, however with my very own I do know I get the precise grip and match I like.
The remainder? That’s as much as Intersport, and I used to be very proud of the rental gear. The standard of rental skis and snowboards is prime, and also you’ll discover Intersport outlets in just about each main ski resort, usually a couple of. So getting gear is not any situation, and costs are truthful… 19 € per day for a weekend rental, is superb worth in comparison with airline baggage charges.
For reference, a 3‑day rental (snowboard + boots) value:
- 56 € internet value
- 53 € constancy value
- 112 € in-store value
It’s roughly 14 € cheaper in case you carry your personal boots. Helmet rental can be round 12 € for 3 days. Costs do fluctuate between outlets and resorts, however it’s nonetheless usually cheaper than paying for cumbersome sports activities baggage on a flight.
You’ll be able to browse choices and e-book your gear forward of time right here: www.intersportrent.com
Intersport runs greater than 750 ski rent outlets throughout the Alps and Pyrenees, so that you’re not often removed from a store or rental counter within the larger resorts. Renting on-site saves airline baggage charges, lightens what you haul by means of airports, and ensures you get freshly serviced skis or boards arrange by individuals who do that all season.
You’ll be able to usually swap tools if circumstances change (e.g., go from an all‑mountain board to one thing extra freeride‑oriented, or from piste skis to one thing with extra float). Many outlets even have fashionable boot-fitting setups, together with Boot Physician scanners in chosen areas, which assist to match the best becoming boots to your toes.
Ski and Snowboard Baggage with Air France
For those who need to include their very own gear. Most likely you’ll get a flight with Air France they usually deal with ski and snowboard tools as commonplace baggage, so long as it matches inside your checked baggage allowance and also you’re not on a “Gentle” fare. In follow meaning: one pair of skis with poles and boots, or one snowboard with boots, in acceptable baggage with a mixed size underneath 300 cm. Boots will be in a separate bag, however ski/board bag plus boot bag rely as one piece.
If you need further baggage or exceed measurement/weight, you pay further choices on-line or on the airport. Helmets within the cabin rely as a part of your hand baggage. ABS avalanche backpacks have to be declared upfront and accredited a minimum of 48 hours earlier than departure attributable to security rules. For the newest baggage guidelines and any adjustments, all the time double-check the present Air France Baggage Information on their web site earlier than you fly.
Ski resort La Mongie and Pic du Midi
The primary cease within the French Pyrenees was La Mongie. We arrived after darkish, catching solely silhouettes of the mountains round us. Waking up and pulling again the curtains is the magic second on any mountain journey… and right here it was only a sea of white, with mountains rolling off in each route.
La Mongie is on the Grand Tourmalet area, named after the well-known Tourmalet go from the Tour de France. The ski space hyperlinks La Mongie on one aspect with Barèges on the opposite, giving mixture of lengthy groomers, huge pistes and extra adventurous areas when the snow is true.
Within the morning we grabbed our gear and hit many of the the pistes and likewise the one which run from La Mongie throughout into the broader Grand Tourmalet space. Round noon we took the cable automobile as much as Pic du Midi, in all probability essentially the most iconic summit within the French Pyrenees. This peak is house to an observatory, a museum space, a restaurant and an enormous viewing terrace. On a transparent day, you get critical, horizon‑filling views over Pyrenees ridgelines and much into Spain.
Contained in the complicated, there are exhibitions in regards to the website’s historical past and astronomy, plus tools like sun-tracking telescopes. It’s genuinely spectacular how they constructed and preserve all of this on a excessive, uncovered summit. The restaurant du Pic du Midi was the ultimate contact that made it even higher.
Sensible information (tickets, restaurant, opening particulars): picdumidi.com
For those who like going off‑piste, it’s doable to experience down from Pic du Midi, finest with a information and solely when the circumstances are protected. There’s a flatter part between steeper pitches which will be annoying on a snowboard, particularly if the snow is sluggish, so hold that in thoughts. I selected to experience from the mid‑station as an alternative, which ought to have been a playful line. On my day it was icy, so it wasn’t fairly the dreamy pow run – however on the best day, this space is a basic Pyrenees freeride expertise.
Restaurant du Pic du Midi
The Restaurant du Pic du Midi sits on the base of the museum complicated on the prime cable automobile station. The inside is easy, minimalist and fashionable – first impression is nearly canteen‑like – however the plates that come out of the kitchen are way more refined than that vibe suggests.
Components are sourced domestically from producers within the area, they usually’re listed on the menu, which is a pleasant contact in case you prefer to know the place your meals comes from. Employees have been pleasant and environment friendly, and, after all, the actual star is the massive panorama exterior the home windows.
Information and reservations:
Hôtel La Voie Lactée (La Mongie)
This lodge turned out to be an excellent decide. It’s a 4‑star property proper by the slopes in La Mongie that was fully renovated and reopened in 2023, and it exhibits: all the things from the foyer to the rooms seems recent, heat and thoughtfully designed.
The decor is trendy with out feeling excessive – plenty of good materials, colors and particulars, even the crockery stands out. Employees have been pleasant and switched simply into good English, which helped so much since my French is… not nice. My room was tremendous comfy, with glorious bedding and among the coziest pillows and mattress I’ve had shortly. Getting up early for first lifts was genuinely a problem.
The lodge additionally leans and truly pushes sustainability, which is so necessary! For instance, the stylish wash basin in my lavatory was created from recycled plastic collected on French seashores. It appeared good and that’s one of many some ways to do it proper.
Breakfast was one other spotlight: diverse, beneficiant and with loads of good-quality native merchandise. The view from my room, searching over snow‑lined peaks and lifts heading up into the mountains, was a type of views you bear in mind lengthy after you’ve checked out.
Peyragudes and Vallée du Louron
Subsequent up was Peyragudes, and that is the place the storm actually kicked in. It began snowing throughout the night time and simply didn’t cease. Till late within the afternoon there was sufficient recent snow that you possibly can do powder activates the pistes themselves. Visibility got here and went – one second you noticed the subsequent marker, the subsequent you have been in a white bubble – which made it fairly difficult for novices, however for powder lovers it was a enjoyable setup.
There are many chairlifts in Peyragudes, so even on a weekend we barely queued. It wasn’t a loopy busy interval anyway, and having a mixture of huge pistes and ungroomed edges made it straightforward to search out your personal strains. Peyragudes sits above the Louron Valley, which has actually leaned into a mixture of snowboarding, thermal baths and out of doors actions, so it’s base in case you like selection over per week.
L’étape du rider by chez Manu
After chopping some strains within the recent snow we stopped for lunch at L’étape du rider, a small, cosy hut proper on the piste. Location‑sensible it’s ultimate: clip out of your bindings, stroll a couple of steps, and also you’re inside with one thing sizzling in your fingers.
On busy days, it’s sensible to order, particularly if you wish to sit inside. On sunny days, the terrace is the place to be, with views over the slopes when the clouds clear. The menu runs from correct meals like burgers and lasagne to sizzling goodies and mulled wine. All the things we tried was tasty, the service was cheerful, and the ambiance felt relaxed moderately than rushed. I bought advised the mountain views are normally nice – I primarily noticed a wall of snowflakes.
Maison La Flambée (Bordères-Louron)
Maison La Flambée is an enormous, cosy cottage in Bordères-Louron that’s good in case you’re travelling with a bunch or as a household. It hits that candy spot between character and practicality: plenty of bedrooms, a number of bogs, a completely geared up kitchen and sufficient area that individuals can unfold out a bit.
There’s an enormous kitchen the place you possibly can prepare dinner large meals collectively, a pool desk for evenings, a heat oven, and a terrace the place you possibly can sit out when the climate permits. It really works nicely for multi‑era journeys or a bunch of mates. The encompassing Louron Valley is gorgeous and presents snowboarding, climbing, and loads of slower‑paced “simply chill out” time. The house owners are pleasant and really fingers‑on in case you need assistance with something.
Aside Resort des Cols
Aside Resort des Cols is one other strong base within the space. Rooms are properly adorned, beds are comfy, and all the things feels nicely maintained. Small touches like intelligent lighting and correct blackout blinds make an enormous distinction after lengthy days within the snow.
Every unit has just a little kitchen nook with what you could put collectively breakfast or easy meals. By automobile it’s straightforward to succeed in Loudenvielle and Saint-Lary, so you possibly can ski one valley, soak in one other and nonetheless be again at your home with out a lengthy drive. It really works nicely if you wish to discover on foot, by bike or by automobile in different seasons, and in winter it’s shut sufficient to the lifts to make ski days simple. The bar space is an effective spot to unwind with a drink and meet different friends. For those who ought to determine to have raclette within the night, don’t bbq your meat on the prime… in case you do, watch the hearth alarm. 😏
Balnéa Spa (Loudenvielle)
After a full day on the mountain, Balnéa in Loudenvielle is a basic place to decelerate. It’s the primary massive thermal leisure centre within the French Pyrenees, set proper within the Louron Valley, and makes use of naturally sulfurous thermal water in its swimming pools. There are themed areas impressed by totally different bathing cultures – Roman, Japanese, Inca, Native American – plus a separate Tibetan zone centered on remedies and massages.
You’ll discover each indoor and out of doors swimming pools, together with areas geared toward households and extra quiet corners (a minimum of in principle). When it’s busy, count on noise nearly in all places, particularly within the household swimming pools; one pool was full of small youngsters and infants once I visited, so be ready for that.
Males should not allowed to put on swim shorts; tight‑becoming swimwear is required, and you should purchase an appropriate pair on the entrance for round 16 €. I don’t know why, however it appears to be some form of unusual legislation in France.
Sensible information and present costs:
Saint-Lary-Soulan
The snow nonetheless didn’t let up after we moved on to Saint-Lary-Soulan, which made for an additional glorious day on the board. A part of our group went totally off‑piste with a information. It was my first journey again into the snow that season and my ankle was nonetheless complaining after torn ligaments, so I made a decision to dial it again a bit and stayed “largely” on marked runs.
Judging by the pictures I noticed afterwards, that was not my most impressed choice. They scored deep powder and large smiles. I nonetheless had a enjoyable day lapping the pistes, however subsequent time I’ll be extra tempted to affix our information Polo on the steeper strains.
You begin your day by taking the gondola from the village of Saint-Lary-Soulan as much as Pla d’Adet. From there, the ski space opens up with totally different sectors and mixture of runs. Situations for us have been improbable – recent snow, clouds largely sitting decrease within the valleys, and good visibility increased up.
Saint-Lary-Soulan’s ski space is among the largest within the Pyrenees, with round 100–105 km of pistes between roughly 1,600 and a pair of,515 metres altitude, served by about two dozen lifts. It stretches from the village (a correct spa city within the valley) as much as excessive, open slopes with lengthy runs and an honest snowpark.
We kicked issues off at Pla d’Adet with a espresso at La Bergerie, then spent the day exploring totally different pistes and following the perfect snow.
Les 3 Guides
Les 3 Guides is a helpful spot to take a break within the Saint-Lary ski space. It’s near a carry, so you possibly can simply time a fast cease between laps or use it as a extra relaxed lunch base. Employees have been pleasant, fast and environment friendly, even when issues bought busy.
You’ll be able to seize something from a easy espresso or a chilly drink to full plates and snacks. On sunny days, the large terrace is the place you need to be, searching over the slopes. If the climate turns, the indoor space is cosy sufficient to cover from the wind and snowfall for some time.
The City Saint-Lary-Soulan
Saint-Lary-Soulan itself is an enormous a part of why this space works so nicely for a winter journey. It’s a correct Pyrenean village moderately than only a function‑constructed resort, with stone homes, slender streets and a centre that feels lived‑in 12 months‑spherical. In winter, all the things is geared in direction of skiers and snowboarders, however you continue to get that small‑city ambiance moderately than simply rows of condo blocks.
The village is called a spa city, with a thermal centre (Sensoria) that makes use of sizzling spring water from the valley. After a day on the slopes you possibly can swap your boots for a swimsuit and soak in heat swimming pools with mountain views. The primary avenue is lined with bars, eating places and outlets, plus a vacationer workplace the place you possibly can decide up maps or information on snowshoes, off‑piste guides and winter climbing.
What a shock… there’s even an Irish Pub.
Saint-Lary can be a hub for different actions within the Aure Valley: snowshoe journeys, sledding, ice waterfalls in chilly spells, canine sledding and even paragliding flights when the climate cooperates. The valley additionally offers entry to wild corners of the Pyrenees just like the Néouvielle Nature Reserve and Lac de l’Oule space, which you’ll attain from the resort through ski runs or lifts after which discover with a information.
The village itself sits roughly 2 hours by highway from Toulouse and about an hour from the Spanish border through the tunnel, which makes it straightforward to mix a French Pyrenees base with a aspect‑journey into Spain if in case you have a automobile.
Le Gros Minet
Le Gros Minet is a type of Saint-Lary-Soulan addresses that locals and returning friends are likely to know. Tucked simply off the principle avenue in a small deadlock, it has been round for many years and mixes a relaxed tapas‑bar really feel with a correct grill restaurant. Suppose vigorous ambiance, wooden‑fired flavours and plates which can be made for sharing after an extended day within the chilly.
The menu leans in direction of conventional French cooking with a Pyrenean twist: grilled meats cooked over charcoal, hearty dishes, salads and tapas‑fashion small plates you possibly can break up with the desk. It’s not haute delicacies, however hearty, satisfying meals with beneficiant parts. I selected the duck burger, which was yummy. The eating room is compact and fills up rapidly in peak weeks, so reserving forward is strongly advisable throughout the winter season.
Why the French Pyrenees Are Price It
After this journey, it’s fairly clear why the French Pyrenees deserve extra consideration from skiers and snowboarders: you get critical mountains, good snow, and sufficient terrain to maintain you busy for per week – however with a extra laid‑again vibe and normally higher worth than many large Alpine names.
You’ll be able to mix totally different valleys like Grand Tourmalet, Vallée du Louron and Aure Valley, combine powder days with thermal baths, and base your self in actual villages like Saint-Lary-Soulan or Loudenvielle that also really feel alive exterior peak weeks. With straightforward gear rental by means of networks like Intersport, plus airports like Toulouse and Tarbes-Lourdes not too far-off, organising an extended weekend or a full week is easy.
For those who like the concept of huge mountains however smaller crowds for much less cash, and swapping the basic Alpine clichés for one thing a bit extra rugged and genuine, the French Pyrenees needs to be very excessive in your winter record.
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